This was my second thru-hike of the Olympic National Park, this time west-to-east up the Quinault and out the Dosewallips. From my trail journal: “3:15 PM, 08/15/2007 – Lake Quinault, South Shore Rd & Merriman Creek. Am sitting at a nice resting spot next to the bridge. I’ve my bottle in the creek chilling, and I had a snack. It’s taken two hours to get here, discounting breaks and registration at the Ranger Station. ‘Tis warm today, and a very weak front (warning of T-storms?) is moving thru, leaving wispy white clouds to drift thru the sky.
I figure another 90-120 minutes to the North Fork road, then another 2 hours to the Graves Creek trail head? Pony Creek by 7:00? That would be cool. I suspect this hike may go quicker than planned.
3:20 PM – Heading out.
5:30 PM – Arrived @ North Fork road just shy of 5:30 PM. The sign at the intersection says 6 miles to Graves Creek Camp. I’m going no further than that today. Feet are hot on soles and tired. My energy is really flagging, but lunch was late and minimal. I am down to ~250 mL of water. I hope that first camp has water.
I wonder how far I’ve come today? Spotted a herd of elk – cows and calves – at the confluence of the Quinaults. My itinerary so far:
Tonight: Graves Creek Camp, tomorrow at Honeymoon Meadows, Friday at Elkhorn Campground, Saturday will hoof it to Brinnon to catch the bus home.
Sounds like today is the ‘big haul’, altho I have no mileage estimates beyond the rough guess of 20 miles?
I think I am at Howe Creek, and I thought I’d sit here for a minute, have a smoke, rest and snack. I will probably make it to Graves Creek Camp by dark, so I’m not very worried or hurried. The National Weather Service is calling for a 30% chance of thunder showers… tho the skies are clear as a bell now.
I can now lay claim to the entire South Shore Road of Lake Quinault, having now walked its length! It’s nice to have the rushing water to fill one’s ears. Traffic has been light this afternoon. Three drivers offered me a ride, but I declined. I had just decided to take the next ride offered when a young man stopped. There was something about him that made me say no, and now my feet hate me!
8:35 PM – Arrived at Graves Creek trail head at 8:00 PM, camped alongside the river, just upstream from the campground. Chili-mac n cheese for dinner. It’s getting a little bit dark now, and I am pooped!
7:24 AM, 08/16/2007 – Slept well last night, tho I woke a couple of times. No leg cramps or significant discomfort, but my L-center toe is blistered. Awoke at 6:20 AM to find the river orange with the reflection of the sunrise on the clouds, which are heavy this morning, and all stacked up against the SW ridge of Muncaster Mtn across the river from me. I’m hoping this is just a marine layer.
8:20 AM – Breakfast is done (3 pkgs Quaker Instant Oatmeal, cinnamon roll flavor) and a cuppa chai, with another cuppa chai ready for the trail, and I’m ready for the trail. Will stop and water up at the tap at the campground. Fishermen are about, tho I suspect they’re a little late this time of day – sunrise was two hours ago. One fellow just came up over the ledge right where I am sitting – I am sure we startled each other. Today will be a great day!
1:15 PM – Along the backs of Pyrites Creek, stopped for lunch, a combo of jerky and an instant mashed potato package, with the addition of some brown gravy powder, reconstituted with a cup of boiling water. Not bad. Clouds have been thickening all morning, and a rain shower has just passed over, but I was only slightly dampened. Have seen lots of bear scat along the way, tho it’s not all so fresh. I wonder if I’ll see a bear? Summit by 6:00?
4:55 PM – Arrived at Enchanted Valley Chalet at 4:00 PM, where I had a nice chat with a Ranger and had a snack.
9:30 AM, 8/17/2007 – Am ready to depart Camp Siberia shelter. Arrived at the summit last night around 7:40 PM, followed shortly thereafter by the three boys who offered me a ride earlier, one of whom picked some very tasty mushrooms for dinner. Camp Siberia earns its name, as it is blasted by very chill winds off the Anderson Glacier. Saw a mama bear and cub, and then a solo bear, yesterday near White Creek. Awoke at 6:30 AM after a poor sleep, and am having a slow, grey, misty morning.
2:40 PM – Arrived at Dose Forks camp ground after about 4 hours of hiking. The wide, blue-green river that is so familiar resembles not at all the mad torrent that leaps from Mounts Anderson and LaCrosse some miles up the trail. Saw nada for wildlife, except two grouse.
6:00 PM – Am at Elkhorn camp ground, moving rather slow as my feet hurt and legs are tired. I really needed to get a good sleep last night. It looks like I’ve hiked over 66 miles so far.
8:22 PM, 8/18/2007 – Alongside the Dosewallips River, Dosewallips Rd., near MP 9. Am camped at a fisherman’s camp, on a sand bar, having relocated from what seemed a better place, as it smelled of piss. I think I am dehydrated, so I need to drink more water tomorrow.
8:42 PM – Bats are flying over the river.
9:12 AM, 8/19/2007 – It is already sunny, and getting warm. I really feel sticky from sweat, and in great need of a shower. Took a rag-bath in the river, that was bracing, but all cooling effect has already been lost. Clouds are high and thin, but thickening.
I slept better last night, only waking a couple of times, and I can recall a few strange dreams, or wisps of them, anyway. While I can now recall that I dreamed, I cannot remember of what.
11:30 AM – Fixing a cuppa chai at the Rocky Brook Falls trail.
3:15 PM – Arrived at the Dosewallips State Park at 1:40 PM, and called Mike to come get me, then headed off to wait for him with a greasy burger and fries at the Halfway House. Also visited the salt marsh at the state park. Will be so grateful for a hot soak in the tub!”
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